With the Polliwog, it is our intention to offer the amateur builder the opportunity to build a lightweight and strong dinghy or tender. Polliwog’s performance is crisp, clean and efficient – you won’t be disappointed. Building the Polliwog can be a wonderful family project or build one with a friend. A minimum of tools are required; plywood scarfing and building molds are not required. Using the latest stitch-and-glue technology, when finished, you have a great boat in need of minimal annual maintenance.

Scan the enclosed materials list and you’ll see this is a quick and thrifty project you can complete in just a few hours with results you can be proud of.

— Sam Devlin

  • 2- 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, 1/4″ thick
  • 1/2 – 4 x 8 sheet of plywood, 1/2″ thick for longitudinals and stern knees, breast hook and rear bulkhead
  • 12- mahogany 1″ x 12″
  • 1- gallon epoxy resin
  • 1/2- gallon epoxy hardener
  • 1- 50 yd. roll 4″ x 8 oz. fiberglass cloth
  • 7- yard 38″ x 6 oz. fiberglass cloth
  • 2- pounds wood flour
  • 2- #4482 Wilcox-Crittenden oarlock sockets
  • 2- quarts primer
  • 1- pint varnish
  • 1- quart enamel

The Polliwog is available as study and construction plans.

***For those of you coming to the Polliwog from the construction video on YouTube, please be aware that the video refers to older version of the plans. The transition notch has been replaced by a different method of construction. It’s also worth noting that the video on YouTube is unofficial and not posted by Devlin Boats. We have no way to update it.

Polliwog Specifications

Length 7 ft. – 6 in.
Beam 4 ft. – 1 in.
Draft 7 in.
Power Oars or 2 hp outboard
Useful Load 450 lbs.
Dry Weight 58 lbs.
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15 thoughts on “Polliwog

  1. I have purchaced plans for polliwog. Thanks But there are no plans attched regaurding the oars. Is it possible to obtain plans please. Polliwog isnt a row boat without oars Cheers Ross.

    • Hi Ross,

      I can’t answer your question myself, but I have forwarded your question to Sam. He’s good with email, not quite up to speed on the comment system yet. 🙂


  2. do not buy is as a business investment for you to build it and make money. It’s a learning tool for some on the weekend to have some fun with his kids and build a boat don’t get me wrong it a fun project. the first time i made a boat it sick to the bottom of the river if that happiness try again.

  3. Hi, I’ve been wailing on the polliwog construction for a couple days now and I’m getting ready to fillet the seams of the boat. At the bow end of the boat where the side panels meet with the bottom panels and at the transition notch; I had to cinch the stitches pretty tight to get the curves to align properly. Since I am new to boat building I’m nervous that as soon as I cut the stitches the boards are going to spring back to their original shape. Are thickened epoxy fillet joints strong enough to hold those joints closed after the stitches are removed? Thanks
    P.S. I tried to find this info on forums and such, but I came up with nada.

  4. Hello
    I have purchased the plans but after watching the youtube demo I have noticed that the plans do not include the transition notch on the side panels. What are the measurements for this?


    • Steven: We did an update on the plans and eliminated the transition joint with a double 45 degree bevel all along the chine edge of the bottom and side panels… She stitches up really nice with this change and I put a note on the plans stating the change. Regards Sam

  5. Hello,
    I had the same question regarding the transition notch as the above commenter. What are the measurements for this?


  6. Some here…I’m not real sure about the transition notch. I could make the notches, but the mystery to me is: along the notches, it appears to be a butt joint. But, what about aft of the notches? Is it a lap joint then, all the way back? Does the side really overhang the bottom by the full thickness of the plywood? I can’t picture what material is left after shaving it all off.

  7. Builders all: The new version of the plans has eliminated the need for the transition joint and if you put the double 45 degree bevel on the chine edges of the bottom and side panels she will stitch up nicely… Transition joints are very hard to describe and medium hard to cut so we are please that we have figured out a way to eliminate… Notes are on the plans about this, read the plans over carefully…. and have a great and easy build! regards Sam

  8. My name is David Barnet, up in Vancouver, BC. I love what this task asks of me. You may take a little longer than Sam suggests, but the real thing is in the booklet: trust your intuition. I practise some skills before hand on scrap wood.
    Thank you Mr. Devlin.

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