Construction of the Godzilla design differs a bit from our other stitch and glue designs. Because of the round stern, 1/2" plywood won't make the bend, so the side panels extend only to the aft bulkhead. Two layers of 1/4" plywood are then used to make the bend around the stern. Two forms are made and attached to the aft bulkhead with 2" X 3" pieces of wood notched in to hold them and the bottom panels in place. These vertical sticks also aid in attaching the layers of 1/4" plywood to the stern. The image on the right shows the first layer of plywood installed. A notch is cut into the 1/2" panel 1/4" deep and about 4" wide. The next layer of 1/4" inch plywood will go in this notch so the joint is staggered at the transition point of the 1/2" plywood and the two layers of 1/4" plywood.

A 1/4" layer of plywood is cold molded to the bottom of the boat giving it a thickness of 3/4". The corners are rounded and a layer of biax and 6 oz. cloth are added to all the joints. The entire hull will eventually be covered with a layer of Dynel.

The keel is made by first making a pattern (lower left). I like to use scrap 1/4" plywood. The core of the keel is made with 2" thick cedar and covered on each side with a 1/2" layer of plywood.

To install the shaft log, I drilled a hole into a bulkhead at the required elevation, and on center line, and cut out a slot out along the keel joint. The shaft log should fit snugly into the hole in the bulkhead. I used a smart level to put the shaft log at the proper angle and taped a plumb bob to the end to keep the log running straight. I used pieces of wood top and bottom to hold everything in place, then screwed on a piece of plywood with thickened epoxy (left image).

Both keel pieces are dryfit and trimmed as needed (lower right). The smaller section of keel is epoxied and slid gently into place making sure not to shift the shaft log. After that has cured, the larger section of the keel is added. A string is run along the length of the keel to ensure it is straight and a smart level is used to ensure the keel is vertical. Notice the wire that is run from a screw in the keel to a screw in the hull and tightened as needed to pull the keel plumb. The keel is held in place with several screws from underneath until it has cured.

The joint between the two keel pieces is dished out about 1/8" deep and 8" wide and glassed with three or four layers of biax. (Left) Another layer of 1/2" plywood will now be added to each side of the entire keel (Center).

The entire keel is glassed with at least two layers of biax. The aft section of the keel has 4 layers of biax at the joint and extends out onto the hull about a foot and a half to help spread the load of the tall keel.

The aft bilge area is well sealed and ready to be covered with the cockpit sole (Right) and the fore-deck bracing is installed (Left)

The cockpit sole is glassed in around the perimeter and the joint where two sheets of plywood meet, are dished out and glassed.

The pilothouse sides are installed, now the cockpit sole can be glassed in.

With the aft pilothouse bulkhead and the forward sections of the pilothouse glassed in place, the roof beams are installed. One layer of 1/2" and one layer of 1/4" plywood are added for the pilothouse roof.

The pilot house roof is shaped and a layer of Dynel is added, and all the windows and door are cut out and framed in. Construction is basically complete at this point.

Brian wraps up the last of three coats of epoxy and the boat is ready for primer.

After several coats of primers and fillers the boat is ready for paint. Kirby hull paint was rolled on with a 1/4" foam roller and "tipped" with a 4" bristle brush. The rest of the boat was painted with a two part acrylic urethane.