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Home Design Catalog ► Godzilla 25 Last updated on: 02/06/09
Godzilla 25

After a successful launch of our Godzilla 22 and having some sea-time on her, I became inspired to build a bigger Godzilla-type tug, one that would have more interior room and that was large enough to allow cruising on the waters of Puget Sound or even potentially up to Southeast Alaska. And as it quite often works out around the boatshop, not much time passed before a prospective customer came out of the woodwork with similar musings. A short couple of months later, we had a hull being planked up in the shop for the new, larger Godzilla 25 design.

Russ's requirements for the "Donna B" were for a boat that had day cruising aspirations along with the necessity of allowing a built-in double berth forward so that when needed, Russ or his wife could take a comfortable nap up forward. We needed more room in the fo'c'sle cabin and so I tried an idea that I had proposed originally on the 22 ft. Godzilla prototype (but was not opted for by the owner) of a flush deck design from the front corner of the pilothouse to the stem of the boat. The flush deck design is remarkable for adding room to the fo'c'sle and results in a cabin that appears larger and spacious with more comfort and a less claustrophobic feeling. For ventilation during the warm summer months of the Wisconsin waters where the boat will homeport, we added a couple of 8" bronze portlights in the hull sides and a large opening fore deck hatch of 27" x 24" size. Russ has a woodworking company and planned on building the fore deck hatch, two side sliding pilothouse doors, pilothouse windows (which are all opening), and the pilothouse rooftop hatch, all constructed of teak. Russ also wanted the capability of doing some of the interior cabinetry himself and to respect his wishes, I let him turn his mind loose and was looking forward to his ideas and craftsmanship. All of the exterior of the Godzilla 25 would be finished and fully functional before shipping out to Wisconsin.

For the power in this boat, I suggested to Russ that we use a four-cylinder Yanmar engine of 75 hp. That of course was over-powered for this type of hull but it had the advantage of smooth, quiet power at about half throttle and with the heat exchanger, a truck or bus type heater could be installed for free cabin heat anytime the engine was running. The engine was housed in its own small trunk type cabin aft of the pilothouse and the main cabin seat (which Russ is building) covered the front of the engine. With some planning, the helm seat could be hinged or dislodged and excellent full headroom access to the engine would be possible making maintenance much more pleasant than most small boats can offer.

I tried unsuccessfully to talk Russ into raising the Lazarette of the boat (stern deck) from bulkhead #5 to the stern up to deck level allowing better access to the steering gear compartment and with the bonus of functioning as a bit of a seat flat that you could perch on. But Russ felt that he preferred a couple of deck chairs to be used for seats and favored a completely single level self-bailing deck from the pilothouse to the stern. So to allow access to the steering gear, I installed a metal flush deck hatch just over the rudderpost.

Construction started in September 2003 and Russ launched his Godzilla 25 in Wisconsin in the Spring of 2004.

Specifications
Length 24' 8"
Beam 9' 0" 
Draft 2' 9"
Displacement 5,800 lbs
Power 75 hp Yanmar diesel
 
See study & construction plans for this boat for sale in the Devlin Store.

See homebuilt Godzillas on our Builder & Owner Testimonials page.

See construction photos from the Devlin shop below.


 

 
(Click images to enlarge)
       
   
View of pilot house from v-berth
 
Sea trials
   

Engine room porthole
 
Storage locker in pilot house floor

Engine controls

The helm

Looking down into the v-berth from the pilot house

The roomy v-berth

Pilot house seating
 
Fuel tank and filters
 
V-berth propane heater
 
The head beneath the helm seat
 
4-cylinder 75 HP Yanmar engine
 
The engine room

Helm controls and electrical panel
The following construction photos
are from the Devlin shop. Work on this boat began on September 2003 and was launched in April 2004.
 

Construction of the Godzilla design differs a bit from our other stitch and glue designs. Because of the round stern, 1/2" plywood won't make the bend, so the side panels extend only to the aft bulkhead. Two layers of 1/4" plywood are then used to make the bend around the stern. Two forms are made and attached to the aft bulkhead with 2" X 3" pieces of wood notched in to hold them and the bottom panels in place. These vertical sticks also aid in attaching the layers of 1/4" plywood to the stern. The image on the right shows the first layer of plywood installed. A notch is cut into the 1/2" panel 1/4" deep and about 4" wide. The next layer of 1/4" inch plywood will go in this notch so the joint is staggered at the transition point of the 1/2" plywood and the two layers of 1/4" plywood.

A 1/4" layer of plywood is cold molded to the bottom of the boat giving it a thickness of 3/4". The corners are rounded and a layer of biax and 6 oz. cloth are added to all the joints. The entire hull will eventually be covered with a layer of Dynel.

The keel is made by first making a pattern (lower left). I like to use scrap 1/4" plywood. The core of the keel is made with 2" thick cedar and covered on each side with a 1/2" layer of plywood.

To install the shaft log, I drilled a hole into a bulkhead at the required elevation, and on center line, and cut out a slot out along the keel joint. The shaft log should fit snugly into the hole in the bulkhead. I used a smart level to put the shaft log at the proper angle and taped a plumb bob to the end to keep the log running straight. I used pieces of wood top and bottom to hold everything in place, then screwed on a piece of plywood with thickened epoxy (left image).

In the left image, notice the 1/4" piece of plywood. This is a pattern I made from the keel and then set it on the bottom of the hull and scribed where the shaft log is located. I then put it back on the keel to mark where to make the cut. Both pieces are notched with a 45 degree cut.

Both keel pieces are dryfit and trimmed as needed (lower right). The smaller section of keel is epoxied and slid gently into place making sure not to shift the shaft log. After that has cured, the larger section of the keel is added. A string is run along the length of the keel to ensure it is straight and a smart level is used to ensure the keel is vertical. Notice the wire that is run from a screw in the keel to a screw in the hull and tightened as needed to pull the keel plumb. The keel is held in place with several screws from underneath until it has cured.

The joint between the two keel pieces is dished out about 1/8" deep and 8" wide and glassed with three or four layers of biax. (Left) Another layer of 1/2" plywood will now be added to each side of the entire keel (Center).

The entire keel is glassed with at least two layers of biax. The aft section of the keel has 4 layers of biax at the joint and extends out onto the hull about a foot and a half to help spread the load of the tall keel.

The aft bilge area is well sealed and ready to be covered with the cockpit sole (Right) and the fore-deck bracing is installed (Left)

The cockpit sole is glassed in around the perimeter and the joint where two sheets of plywood meet, are dished out and glassed.

The pilothouse sides are installed, now the cockpit sole can be glassed in.

With the aft pilothouse bulkhead and the forward sections of the pilothouse glassed in place, the roof beams are installed. One layer of 1/2" and one layer of 1/4" plywood are added for the pilothouse roof.

The pilot house roof is shaped and a layer of Dynel is added, and all the windows and door are cut out and framed in. Construction is basically complete at this point.

Brian wraps up the last of three coats of epoxy and the boat is ready for primer.

After several coats of primers and fillers the boat is ready for paint. Kirby hull paint was rolled on with a 1/4" foam roller and "tipped" with a 4" bristle brush. The rest of the boat was painted with a two part acrylic urethane.
 

Devlin Designing Boat Builders
2424 Gravelly Beach Loop NW
Olympia, WA 98502
(360) 866-0164
Email Sam Devlin

www.devlinboat.com

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